May 7, Natural History Seashells, dinosaurs and pot sherds

Yesterday, in the Petrified Forest, with our printed “nature guide,” we thought we were beginning to understand the rocks and plants around here. But today, we REALLY learned about rocks, local flora and even dinosaurs! Relatively bright and early for us (9 a.m.) we met our guide, Nathan, the owner of Escalante Outfitters. We had briefly met him over our breakfast order the previous morning: he was a pro at taking orders, chatting, juggling warming muffins, pouring granola and making coffees, all at the same time, it seemed, to an endless line of customers.His high energy, enthusiasm and knowledge was at our disposal on our tour today. Turns out he studied geology and environmental conservation in University. (He also has gone adventuring with Craig Childs!) 

Cabins, Escalante Outfitter

We ended up on an easily walked rock slope on an Escalante backroad; on the way, Nathan pointed out the primary land forms and explained we were looking at the seabed and seashore of an inland sea that existed (150) million years ago (the Cretaceous Period).

see the shells?

Shell imprints

The first thing he pointed out,steps from the truck were fossilized seashells and imprints of seashells. Once we distinguished them, they seemed to be everywhere. Up to that moment, it had always been hard to imagine the sea in such a high, arid place. We are now believers!

While we ascend the slope, he is pointing out the flora and answering our endless questions (why are the junipers so twisted? They are seeking water and have to abandon previous growth in order to support that part of tree that is able to access water. Why are the cactus so small? The temperatures are too cool in the nights and over the winter.)

In a grouping of rocks, he starts to pick up small pot shards – broken pot pieces made approx. 1000 years ago by the “Fremont” Indians; in fact, he points to some small, blackened alcoves and suggests that we are looking at ancient kilns, and these pot bits might even be from pots that exploded in the kilns. The shards were grey and hard to distinguish from some of the small rocks around, but after a few tries, we managed to spot some ourselves. Nathan also picked up a few fragmented “points” – what we would call arrowheads. He also pointed out a grinding stone (Metate).

Shard - outside 

shard -inside

And then in the same vicinity, maybe even the same cluster of rocks, Nathan began pointing out dinosaur fossils! We saw two distinct bones, and suggestions of others, as well as the probable imprint of an ancient fern frond. Such riches opened up the possibilities of what we had to that moment just appreciated as stunning rock forms. Whole new horizons opened. Now we are afraid our drives and hikes are going to take four times as long as they should!

Nathan and Barb searching for fossils

Can you spot the bone fossil? Pretty much in center of photo.

As the clouds darkened and a bit of hail began to fall, we climbed into the truck and headed to our favorite lookout over the Navajo Sandstone at the east end of town, for another geology lesson, and serious hail. The geology is still way over my head, but he did say we were looking over what was once endless miles of sand dunes. That was not so hard to envision. We had one more stop to make a little further down into the Sandstone canyon – dinosaur tracks! Wow – right by the side of the road, little 3-toed tracks imprinted on the rock! A little guy. Now the hail was unpleasant, accumulating on the rocks and the truck. By the time we turned around at Kiva Koffeehouse down the road (and stopped to pick up coffee), the rocks were running with water, and was already filling washes and streaming down the road. It becomes very easy to understand how flashfloods happen. And how water is such a powerful force, shaping the rock formations.

By the time we said goodbye to Nathan, and got out our lunch (last night’s pizza), we were buzzing with new information and sights. A real high! We were almost reluctant to head West to Bryce Canyon, especially into more dark clouds. But here we are, snug in a real pine forest, in a bigger, more finely finished log cabin. Our entry into the park was through wet snow and slush, and the clouds remain heavy as sunset approaches. We were told sunset and sunrise were the best times to see Bryce, but I don’t think sunset tonight is going to cut it. Barb pulled on all her wet and warm gear and headed down into the big canyon loop. I had done it a few years ago, and was put off by the weather. So I took in the pink and yellow hoodoos from the Rim Walk and then sat in a warm bath while Barb charged along the canyon in hopes of getting back to our cabin in time to head off to the Lodge together for dinner. And here she is!